SE 7-Piece Watch Spring Bar Tool Set - Includes 6 Interchangeable Pins and 5-Inch Tool - Ideal for Watch Repair - JT6203...

I bought this kit because it was just a few dollars more than the watch case wrench alone. This is the regular size watch case opener tool~if you have one of those HUGE watches that are popular these days you may need to get the standalone XL watch case opener available elsewhere. The watchcase opener in this kit has 3 prongs, and it comes with 18 bits that fit into the prongs. You get 3 little round bits, 3 bigger round bits, 3 square bits, 3 trianglur bits and 3 bits that are sort of like a regular non-phillips screwdriver. You put on whatever the indents of your watch back looks like to grip it and be able to unscrew it. I used the square bits to (finally) be able to open up a Seiko 7n43-type dress watch from the 1990s that was stuck shut. I was also able to use it on a 2003 Seiko 2kx-type divers watch. The opener was NOT at full extension so it could be used on watches that are larger than thesealthough probably not the HUGE watches that sell on TV these days. On the opener at full extension (largest size) the two top bits are about 33mm apart from each other and theyre both 37mm from the bottom bit. Now, you dont put these on a diameter on the caseback. The top two are at about 10 oclock and 2 oclock with the bottom bit being at 6 oclock. Because of this you can open a watch that has a larger than 33mm diameter back. You put the bottom bit on a caseback depression and then the top to go on either side of the opposite diameter depression: so it doesnt span the entire caseback-letting you open larger casebacks. This is a good feature. The only reason Im mentioning it is because you may be measuring all the way across (wrong) to see if this will fit you watch. Anywayif you have a normal sized watch or smaller you should be fine. If you have a HUGE watch you bought on a TV shopping channel or one of those big Russian submarine watches-you might need to by something else (the XL watch opener). The normal sized Invictas would probably be finebut maybe not the HUGE Russian diver ones they make. I dont think anything would fit those monstrous Diesel watches, lol! If youre not sure: look at the back of the watch for the depressions/holes/insets that the prongs would catch on to allow you to unscrew the watch: measure from the 6 oclock one to either 10 or 2 oclock (not the depression directly across at 12 oclock). If these are bigger than 37mm you cant use this. Now measure from 10 oclock to the 2 oclock depression: if thats bigger than 33mm you cant use this. Youll need a larger opener. Like I said, it worked fine on my Seiko dive and dress watches with room to spare. BTW: the 6 oclock to 12 oclock (diameter) of the back of my Seiko is about 34mm. The watch case holder has two pins that fit into and two of four holes on one side. The other side has a block with a depression so as not to crush the watchs crown (the thing you spin to change the time). It opens to allow a watch with an outside dimension of 42mm. My Seiko dive watch fit with 3mm to spare. Again, if you have a HUGE watchyou may need something else. The watch case holder has lots of holes drilled in it-but theyre only for show. Only the four holes opposite the clamp side have threaded metal sleeves that accept the pins. The pins are just screws with a plastic washer. Nothing fancybut it is made to not scratch your watch and it works. Im happy with it. I built my own-but I like this one just as much. My Seiko dive watch fit in it with 3mm to spare. The metal tweezers are very nice. They have a typo (I think) that says theyre noM-magnetic. Either they meant noN-magnetic, or theyre actually NoMinally magnetic-which would be bad for watches. Probably a typo! There are three screw drivers in the kit. Theyre small and have set screws to keep the tips in. Nice feature. They look about the same: maybe a step up from those dollar store kits that come in the blue plastic boxes with the clear lids. I got a couple of those cheap kits and grind the tips down even smaller-these are nice though-but not really small enough for many screws deep inside watches. You get three pin link pushers: .8mm, .9mm and a 1.0mm. Theyre nice to use as probes inside watches when youre not pushing pins/bars with them. The .8mm fits into the holes on my Seiko so I can remove the band. There is what theyre calling a spring bar remover included. It has a small fork at one end and a bigger one at the other. These have ferules that unscrew and you could remove the forks. I would think youd use the three pin link pushers to remove the spring bar as well, Id probably use this to fork-off the hour and minute handsbut theyre an actual (better/safer) tool you should buy separately for that. Most other spring bar removers they look just like the pin link pushers; but some (like this one) are more expensive because of the forks. You can hook the forks and use them to push down the spring pins using the little collars/shoulders *some* spring bars have on them. You do this from the *inside* ins...

Earlier this year I purchased a Pulsar women's watch for my wife that needed resizing. When I first looked at the watch, the pins appeared to have screw heads on one side. I ordered a 1mm screwdriver from ZeeBooth which didn't quite fit and certainly didn't work. After some research I discovered that these are actually pins that need to be pushed out. I bought this kit a few days ago and yesterday it arrived. For the price, I was skeptical that it would be decent quality, but figured it would work for a couple of uses at least. I was very pleasantly surprised. The three included pins fit perfectly into the tiny pin holes in the watch. The inside of the watchband actually had small arrows showing which direction to push the pins out. (They come out on the side with the slots on them.) The plastic watch band holder was a big help, with grooves for various watch band sizes. Ours fit into the smaller ones. Then simply place the pin punch on top and gently tap with the metal side of the hammer. It didn't require much force at all and the pin pushed through. The plastic holder has holes and grooves to allow the pins to drop through to the table. I recommend you figure out how many links to remove from each side of the band before taking it apart. Be sure to keep the punch as straight as possible and tap gently. I placed the watch on the bathroom tile countertop when tapping the pins back in and made very slight indentations on the backside of the watch. A newspaper underneath would have prevented this. I discovered it was easiest to push the pins back in by hand first as far as possible. Then place the watch on a newspaper or firm mousepad and gently tap the pin in with the plastic side of the hammer. Only use the punch replacing the pin for the last part if it needs to be recessed. With one of the pins, I found just pushing it in by hand was sufficient. The punches seem well made and solid. The box doesn't say the punch sizes. ZeeBooth says 0.7mm, 0.8mm and 1.0mm but my best estimates at their sizes are closer to 0.6mm, 0.8mm, and 0.95mm. The largest punch fit perfectly in our Pulsar watch, although any of them would probably have done fine. The kit seems well made enough that I could do dozens if not a hundred watches before needing to replace it. I was able to work the tools out of and back into the package without removing the staple, allowing it to be used for storage. The back of the package says "Made in China" and contains these basic instructions: 1. Place the Watch Band in the Holder. 2. Position the Pin Punch or Spring Bar on top of the Pin/Bar. 3. Hit with Hammer to Remove or Insert Pin.